Introduction
In 1838, Spain and Mexico signed a Treaty of Peace and Friendship, seemingly putting an end to the conflict between conquerors and those wronged. Ángel Calderón de la Barca, a clever and patient man, was appointed as Spain’s plenipotentiary minister in México and tasked with traveling to the country as his first field assignment. Though his surname evokes literary connotations, Ángel had no connection to letters. However, his wife, Frances Erskine Inglis, a Scottish woman residing in Boston, was captivated by all things Hispanic. A writer and avid reader, she accepted Ángel’s marriage proposal at age 32, despite his being fifty and having distinguished facial hair.
The Journey Begins
In the same year, Frances and Ángel Calderón de la Barca embarked on the “Norma” from New York. Their first stop was Havana, followed by Veracruz, where they proceeded to Mexico City by land. Enthusiastic and almost immediately, Madame Calderón de la Barca began writing detailed letters to her family in Boston about her observations, though the initial excitement of the journey and anticipation of new adventures were soon overshadowed by reality.
Initial Impressions
“I have always loved life at sea,” she wrote, “but not the kind carried out on a merchant ship with poorly ventilated cabins and unpleasant odors. Everything becomes malodorous.” The headwind slowed their progress: “We have covered seventy-four miles but only forty.”
Extended Stay in Mexico
In December 1839, the Calderón de la Barca family disembarked in Veracruz, unaware that they would remain for an extended period, enjoying what felt like endless summer vacations.
Tropical Fascination and Cultural Encounters
Through her writings, we learn of Frances’ fascination with Havana’s tropical charm, her terror at experiencing a norther in Veracruz, her impressions of meeting General Antonio López de Santa Anna, and the horror she felt when a roadside inn keeper recounted tales of thieves, robberies, and gruesome murders. She also delighted in eating freshly made tortillas.
Arriving in Mexico City
Upon arriving in Mexico City in early July 1840, her description is unparalleled: “Finally, we could admire the immense valley from above, so renowned worldwide and surrounded by mountains, with its volcanoes and large lakes, as well as the fertile plains surrounding Moctezuma’s city, pride of its conqueror and the most brilliant jewel of the Spanish Empire’s former colonies. We could already glimpse the spires of its countless bell towers. It seemed as if we were being shown a vision of the past, not a revelation of the present. As if time’s heel lifted to reveal the panorama that Cortés first beheld.”
Changing Style and Insights
Gradually, unaware that her correspondence would be compiled into a two-volume book titled “Life in Mexico during a Two-Year Residence in the Country,” Madame Calderón de la Barca altered her writing style. In the summer of 1840, she wrote with fascination:
“There are no women more affectionate in demeanor than Mexican women. In fact, a foreigner, especially an Englishman accustomed to the reserve of his countrymen, need only live here for a few years, understand the language, and become accustomed to the peculiar way of Mexican women to realize that Mexican girls are simply irresistible.” She deemed them excellent wives but cautioned that “when an Englishman marries in Mexico, he must be prepared to put down roots here, as it is rare for a Mexican woman to live outside her homeland. They miss the climate and the warm affection and cordiality that envelops them here. They are true patriots, and their desires do not extend beyond their own horizon.”
Revealing Mexican Customs and Charm
The diplomatic mission concluded in 1842. Throughout their long summer stay, Madame Calderón de la Barca unveiled Mexico’s charms and enduring national customs to the world: daily festivities, a penchant for drinking and dining together, being one of the world’s most festive peoples, lengthy visits that never last less than an hour, interminable summers, and the belief that “your home is always my home.”
Key Questions and Answers
- Who was Frances Erskine Inglis Calderón de la Barca? She was a Scottish writer and avid reader who married Ángel Calderón de la Barca, Spain’s plenipotentiary minister in Mexico, and accompanied him on an extended stay in the country.
- What was the significance of the 1838 Treaty of Peace and Friendship between Spain and Mexico? The treaty marked the end of longstanding conflicts between Spain and Mexico, allowing for improved diplomatic relations.
- How did Frances Calderón de la Barca contribute to the world’s understanding of Mexico? Through her detailed letters compiled into a two-volume book, she shared insights into Mexican culture, customs, and daily life, revealing both the country’s charm and enduring traditions.
