Celebrating a Quarter Century: Enrique Olvera’s Resilience and Commitment
As Pujol marks 25 years, Chef Enrique Olvera reflects on the unwavering philosophy of resilience and dedication that has made it a global benchmark for Mexican cuisine.
No Magic Formulas, Only Steadfast Principles
Olvera emphasizes that there are no secret formulas for maintaining relevance in a country where restaurants open and close rapidly. Instead, it’s about an unyielding daily exigency, commitment, and the rigor of a craft that often leaves no room for indulgence.
Respecting Tradition, Evolving with Time
Pujol’s success isn’t just about its longevity; it’s about building an iconic, deeply Mexican gastronomy that evolves without losing its roots.
From the start, Pujol has focused on working with top-quality national ingredients and mastering traditional techniques. Nixtamalization of native corn isn’t a symbolic gesture but a daily practice. Chiles are chosen for their variety and expression, while broths, fermentations, and moles are meticulously adjusted.
The Mole Madre: A Living Emblem
Among all Pujol’s dishes, the Mole Madre stands as a symbol of this philosophy. It’s a preparation that grows and renews daily, accumulating flavor and memory over its more than 3,700 days of active life.
Beyond this figure, Mole Madre embodies the idea that tradition isn’t copied or preserved in formaldehyde. It’s nurtured, fed, and constantly transformed—a living tribute to Mexico’s gastronomic history and an example of how time can be as crucial an ingredient as corn or chili peppers.
Cooking Without Compromises
Pujol’s menu has evolved continuously for 25 years, yet it has adhered to one unyielding principle: working with high-quality Mexican ingredients and employing the country’s techniques without concessions.
The restaurant’s success isn’t solely due to its chef’s figure. Olvera acknowledges that it all rests on a staff committed to the same work ethic. Cooks, waitstaff, sommeliers, and suppliers all share an obsession with detail, consistency, and respect for the product.
Chef and Entrepreneur
For those aspiring to open a restaurant, Enrique Olvera doesn’t offer easy recipes or guarantees of success. His advice is direct: “Sell everything. No, not really,” he jokes. “This is a marathon; you have to endure, be consistent, patient, and clear about your goals.”
What seems like a warning is also a reminder: “Restaurant business requires perseverance, resilience, and continuous learning. Creativity and charisma aren’t enough; you must build a solid team, learn to buy better, cook precisely, and most importantly, understand that the competition is with yourself.”
Regarding the future, Olvera candidly states, “I don’t know if I can keep it up for another 25 years, maybe 15.” There are no promises of perpetuity. The only commitment is to meticulous attention and respect for the product.
Thus, Pujol’s story isn’t told through awards or anniversaries but through the daily service, each dish served, the conversations sparked about Mexican cuisine, and the certainty that excellence is a daily journey, not a destination.
