Celebrating Indigenous Women’s Day: Zapotec Entrepreneurs in Oaxaca Promote Artisanal Chocolate and Preserve Cacao Tradition with Flor de Molienda
Chocolate delights everyone, with countless combinations to suit every palate. However, behind this product are indigenous entrepreneurs who contribute to its production. In the context of Indigenous Women’s Day, celebrated every 5th of September, which aims to highlight the role of indigenous women, defend their communities’ identity, and showcase cultural richness, we share the story of Gabriela Cuevas, founder of Flor de Molienda. She specializes in grinding cacao, a process that crushes the seeds into a paste forming the base of chocolate.
In my community, there was no place to carry out cacao grinding. This business model is well-known in Oaxaca, but people had to travel to the city of Oaxaca
A Process Steeped in Tradition and Flavor
Although hot chocolate is enjoyed during winter, in the municipality of San Juan Bautista Guelache, Oaxaca, home to people of Zapotec origin, chocolate is used for any celebration or event, regardless of the season.
In the region where I live, everything is a celebration. Major events are celebrated with chocolate, like family gatherings where chocolate is distributed, and other occasions such as funerals
The grinding business has a unique characteristic: the chocolate aroma that emanates from the seeds as they are crushed. This aroma is so captivating that it attracts passersby, an effect that inspired Gabriela Cuevas to start her business.
She also mentions that, when visiting Mexico City to sell her products, people are drawn to Oaxacan chocolate.
“We offer chocolate with natural spices like cardamom, nuts, cranberries, and hazelnuts. We also have a blend with chipotle pepper and peanuts, rosemary, ginger, and cinnamon. At first, people find it strange, but once they try it, they realize how delicious it is,” she points out.
A Business Composed Solely of Women
The business consists of four women: Rosalba, who handles the counter and events; Joseline, who began in the Jóvenes Construyendo el Futuro program and now works full-time; Clara, who is part of the program; and Gabriela, founder of Flor de Molienda, who oversees all areas.
When asked why only women are involved, Gabriela Cuevas explains that they have had male collaborators who didn’t last long and contributed minimally, as there were delays in orders, lack of communication, or absences.
Moreover, she perceives less commitment from men in food production, like cacao grinding, due to community customs. This results in a heavier workload, such as transporting cacao sacks to the mill, which usually requires two women or occasional help from suppliers.
The Struggle and Scarcity of Cacao
Cacao production has been challenging due to an 11% decrease in 2023 and 2024, a situation unseen for over 50 years, according to the International Cocoa Organization (ICCO).
Gabriela Cuevas explains that grinding cacao is expensive, especially in recent years due to scarcity, which has increased its value. Additionally, finding high-quality seeds that don’t alter the product’s flavor or quality has become complicated.
Chocolate, at least in Oaxaca, was very cheap because it was seen as a daily craft. Since last year, with the global cacao shortage, its price has increased so much, but this has helped give the bean and producers’ work their true value
However, the price increase led to haggling and comments about product prices. Despite this, over time, such comments have decreased as people understand the process and global chocolate situation.
Discrimination Faced by Indigenous Women Entrepreneurs
In Mexico, around 39.2 million people identify as indigenous, with 51% being women; however, three out of ten indigenous women have experienced discrimination, according to the National Institute of Statistics and Geography (Inegi).
This issue has also affected Gabriela Cuevas, who admits to having faced discrimination but hasn’t let it hinder her business or professional growth.
As indigenous women, we must value ourselves first. At the beginning, it made me uncomfortable to talk to people about my product
She encourages all women entrepreneurs not to fear starting a business, staying informed, and not undervaluing their products due to negative comments.
