Chef Pako Cortés Brings His Daring “Cobarde” Project from Oaxaca to Mexico City
After captivating audiences in Oaxaca with a concept that dared to challenge tradition in the heart of corn country, Chef Pako Cortés has transplanted his project, “Cobarde,” a Bib Gourmand in the Michelin Guide, to Mexico City. Since August, the Roma neighborhood has become the stage for this new chapter where audacity defines each dish and detail of the space.
“In Oaxaca, we had already done the toughest part: opening a daring place opposite Santo Domingo. Now, the challenge is different: competing in a city where some of the country’s best chefs reside,” explains Cortés.
A Provocative Culinary Experience
“Cobarde” does not aim to please everyone; it seeks to provoke reactions. Dishes like the whole duck neck embody this philosophy, sparking conversation, discomfort, or fascination—never indifference. “A dish should shake up diners and bring the conversation back to the table,” says Cortés, influenced by experiences with David Chang and Daniela Soto-Innes in New York.
Technique and Satire
Cortés defines his style as a blend of refined technique and satirical gestures towards conventional fine dining. An example is his Tawa chicken in Oaxaca, served with the entire leg as an ironic nod to French formality and a tribute to street food. “For me, it’s a mockery of that medieval notion of haute cuisine, but also a reminder that the popular has as much power as the sophisticated,” he says.
The Space: Discreet and Enigmatic
The “Cobarde” space in Roma is as subtle as it is mysterious. The entrance is a bar leading to a hidden dining room on the upper floor of a colonial house, designed so that surprise becomes part of the experience. “I don’t want it to be an obvious or touristy spot. I want people to discover it and recommend it word of mouth,” comments the chef.
The Menu: An Evolving Laboratory
With dishes integrating up to twenty ingredients, the “Cobarde” menu requires explanation and attention. Among its most sought-after creations are nudi inspired by New Jersey’s Italo-American cuisine and reimagined dumplings, which already have loyal customers.
“Creating a menu is like composing music; you have to experiment, balance, and adjust until you find the right harmony,” Cortés explains about his meticulous creative process.
Future Projects: A New Take on Mexican Breakfast
Although Cortés does not plan to replicate “Cobarde” in other cities, he is already designing a new project: a space for breakfast that will revive Mexican morning culture with Thai and Vietnamese influences.
With the help of David Virruete (Cucurucho Café) and specialist producers of ingredients like galangal and green papaya, Cortés aims to reimagine the capital’s breakfast scene and turn it into a unique experience.
Key Questions and Answers
- Who is Pako Cortés? Pako Cortés is a chef who gained recognition in Oaxaca for his daring culinary approach, challenging tradition and formality in fine dining.
- What is “Cobarde”? “Cobarde” is a restaurant project by Chef Pako Cortés, now located in Mexico City, known for its provocative and risk-taking dishes.
- What makes “Cobarde” unique? The restaurant’s dishes integrate numerous ingredients, requiring explanation and attention. Its space is designed to be discreet and enigmatic, with a hidden dining room on the upper floor of a colonial house.
- What are Cortés’ future plans? Cortés plans to create a new breakfast space that will revive Mexican morning culture with Thai and Vietnamese influences.
