Background on the Situation
As the holiday season approaches in Mexico, traditional bacalao faces a double challenge: a more limited global supply and unwavering demand. After visiting several sales centers, including Mexico City’s Central de Abasto, and speaking with Aída Aguilar from the specialized bacalao importer XelHá, it’s confirmed that European fishing has decreased, prices are rising, and Mexican consumers are already noticing.
European Fishing Decline
In Europe, the Union’s fishing catch has dropped from nearly 4.6 million tonnes in 2018 to around 3.3 million tonnes by 2024, a decrease of approximately 28%. Specifically, the Barents Sea fishing for cod, managed by Norway and Russia, has agreed on a total quota of about 340,000 tonnes for 2025. This represents a reduction of roughly 25% compared to 2024, marking the lowest level since 1991.
Characteristics of Authentic Bacalao
To ensure you’re purchasing genuine bacalao, consider these key features:
- Texture: It should have a flaky consistency when touched or torn apart (not compact).
- Smell: It should have a characteristic smell, “a bit like milk, cheese, or maturation,” but not rancid or harsh.
- Appearance: When held against the light, it should not appear smooth like a catfish.
Additionally, be aware of potential fraudulent substitutions: “Some people put something that’s not bacalao in its packaging… consumers should know what they’re buying.”
Implications for the Christmas Dinner and Consumer Advice
Here are some tips for Mexican consumers as bacalao prices rise by up to 30% this holiday season:
- Plan ahead: Given the price increase and reduced availability, purchasing from October to November is recommended.
- Store properly: Once bought, refrigerate the bacalao at 3-5°C; if you don’t have a refrigerator, keep it out of its plastic packaging and in an airy cardboard box.
- Consider alternative cuts: Descaled bacalao may be less expensive than loin center cut but still offers great quality.
- Make the most of it: “Bacalao is one of the few products that taste even better when reheated,” Aguilar notes. Prepare it in advance, portion it, and refrigerate until your Christmas dinner.
Informed Purchasing
To ensure you’re buying authentic bacalao, verify its origin and ask about presentation, storage, and any certifications.
