Celebrating Candelaria with a Tamal-Centric Menu
In Mexican cuisine, the tamal transcends mere recipes; it’s a celebration, a gathering, and a memory. For Candelaria, Chapulín restaurant, located in the Hotel Presidente InterContinental Ciudad de México in Polanco, presents a special menu that takes the tamal as its starting point and the Sonoran barbacoa tamal as its centerpiece.
Chef José Luis Ronquillo’s Vision
Developed by executive chef José Luis Ronquillo and his team, they view Candelaria as an exercise in gastronomic continuity. “The tamal doesn’t need to be reinterpreted; it needs to be understood,” explains the chef. Under this idea, Chapulín built a menu that respects traditional techniques and pays attention to the primary ingredient’s origin: corn.
“Time, Technique, and Memory” in a Tamal
José Luis Ronquillo, Chapulín’s executive chef, states: “The tamal represents time, technique, and memory. In Chapulín, we prepare it respecting corn and traditional processes so that it remains a meeting point at the table.”
The Sonoran barbacoa tamal, made with beef brisket and shoulder, is presented bathed in green salsa and accompanied by onions and cilantro. This preparation evokes prolonged cooking, patient work, and flavors typically reserved for special occasions. Here, barbacoa is not just an accessory filling but the star.
“The Sonoran barbacoa tamal summarizes what we aim for in this celebration: product, time, and memory,” notes Ronquillo. The dish balances soft textures, a balance between fat and acidity, and maintains the tamal’s identity without concessions or excesses.
Key Tamal Offerings
- Sonoran Barbacoa Tamal: A deep-flavored tamal where barbacoa fat is balanced with salsa acidity and firm masa structure, reminiscent of long Sunday dinners and celebratory cooking.
- Tamal de Chilorio: Offers a spiced profile with carnitas cooked in a blend of dry chiles and spices, adding intensity without overpowering the masa. It recalls recipes from northern Mexico, where adobo is central to flavor.
- Tamal de Rajas con Queso Asado: Features a direct and recognizable combination of mild chili strips and melted queso asado. The rajas add moderate heat, while the cheese creates a creamy texture contrasting with the salsa made from hand-crushed tomatoes and chilies.
- Tamal de Verdolagas: Filled with pork, accompanied by a verdolaga salsa. The verdolagas add a vegetal note that lightens the dish, connecting it to everyday cooking where this ingredient has traditionally been used as a base or accompaniment.
- Tamal Dulce de Elote: A sweet corn tamal served with caramel popcorn and clotted cheese sauce, reminiscent of fair flavors and sweet versions often found in family gatherings.
Menu Availability
Available from January 31 to February 8, the menu can be enjoyed during weekend brunch hours, as well as lunch and dinner. The aim is to transform various times of the day into spaces for sharing a dish historically linked to the family dining table.
