From Altar to Kitchen: The Journey of the Cempasúchil
The cempasúchil, also known as the zempoalxóchitl, has a powerful story. It thrives under the sun, perishes with cold, and returns each autumn to remind us that life and death can share the same table. Its vibrant color not only illuminates altars but also inspires chefs seeking earthy ingredients for a new culinary narrative.
Today, the cempasúchil transcends its role as an offering flower to become a culinary ingredient. In the canals of Xochimilco and the nurseries of Tláhuac, producers and gastronomes collaborate to ensure this ancient symbol has a place in contemporary Mexican gastronomy, adhering to standards of quality, traceability, and sustainable cultivation.
Traceability: The Essence of Flavor
The transition from altar to pantry wasn’t spontaneous; it was the result of a joint effort between agricultural producers and food safety-conscious chefs. Araceli Ramírez Cruz, a gastronomy graduate and flower transforming chef in Tulyehualco, Xochimilco, is a key figure in this process.
“I acquire the flowers from small-scale producers who cultivate without pesticides or chemical fertilizers and use pathogen-free water to ensure their plants are safe for human consumption,” explains Araceli.
Her work isn’t isolated. Restaurants in the capital now include certified origin flowers on their menus, marking a new phase where the beauty of the altar transforms into seasonal flavor.
The Sweet Cempasúchil
The cempasúchil has an unforgettable taste: slightly bitter, with herbaceous, citrusy notes and an earthy tone reminiscent of the milpa. Although its use has been explored in sauces, moles, or fermented beverages, its potential truly shines in pastry, where ingredient control reveals its delicate floral character.
Araceli shares her cempasúchil cookie recipe: dehydrated petals, butter, confectioners’ sugar, flour, cornstarch, and a brief bake at low temperature (130°C for 12 minutes) to preserve aromatic notes. The result? Cookies that not only taste like the field but also tradition and innovation.
An Agricultural Base with Economic Weight
The cempasúchil’s gastronomic boom is supported by a robust agricultural foundation. According to Mexico City’s Agriculture Secretary, 38.10 hectares were dedicated to cempasúchil cultivation in 2024: 24.70 hectares open-field and 13.40 in greenhouses. The total production was 28.4 tons of bunches and over 1.8 million potted plants, generating an economic impact exceeding 27 million pesos.
Though the ornamental destination still dominates, this established market allows producers to open new revenue streams by incorporating the flower into the food chain. A model that boosts local economy and strengthens the connection between field and kitchen.
Key Questions and Answers
- What is the cempasúchil? The cempasúchil, or zempoalxóchitl, is a vibrant orange flower central to Mexican culture, particularly during the Day of the Dead.
- Why is it gaining popularity in the kitchen? Chefs are exploring its unique flavor profile, which includes slightly bitter notes with herbaceous, citrusy undertones and earthy tones reminiscent of the milpa.
- Who are the key figures in this culinary movement? Araceli Ramírez Cruz, a gastronomy graduate and flower transforming chef in Tulyehualco, Xochimilco, plays a crucial role.
- What are the benefits of traceable ingredients? Traceability ensures that cempasúchil is cultivated without harmful pesticides or chemical fertilizers, making it safe for human consumption.
- How does this trend impact the local economy? The cempasúchil’s incorporation into the food chain supports local producers and strengthens the connection between agriculture and gastronomy.
