Introduction to Cantina Cuisine
Cantinas, with their neon lights and marble bars or worn tile floors and historic bottles, all share one thing in common: their food. Not necessarily the exact recipe or specific seasoning, but rather the spirit of cantina cuisine. This gastronomic tradition is not a fleeting trend or seasonal menu; it’s an unwritten code shared between chefs and diners, understanding what constitutes a good table—and an even better drink.
The Iconic Dishes
A proper cantina serves a thick, vibrant shrimp broth, a declaration of principles. Prepared with dried shrimp that bloom like underwater flowers amidst potatoes, carrots, and perfectly chopped celery, it’s the mandatory consomé to temper your body before the first shot or the draft beer arrives.
Next come the tortas, those portable monuments to excess. A thick, lightly golden telera bun can handle the moisture of homemade mole, crispy chilaquiles, or classic pairings like leg with cheese and breaded meat with beans. The torta isn’t just an accompaniment; it’s a central act in the cantina ritual, always present to complement the drink or as a response to the hunger that returns after the second rum.
The Reigning Queen: Elephant Ear
If there’s a queen at the cantina table, it’s the elephant ear: that colossal breaded piece covering the plate like a banner of abundance. Crispy, juicy, and slightly greasy, it comes accompanied by French fries and guacamole, inviting impromptu tacos. Here, there’s no room for moderation or fine cutlery; it’s food to be eaten with your hands, shared, or fiercely defended, bite by bite.
Goat: A Dish of Respect
In the heart of many cantinas, you’ll find goat, served in whole pieces with the bone exposed or shredded for tacos filled with history, fat, guacamole, and a good chile morita salsa. It’s a dish of respect, served with pauses, an aroma that permeates even to the sidewalk, and a flavor demanding long sips and after-dinner drinks.
The Chamorro: A Bite for the Initiated
Chamorro, in chunks or deboned, with glistening cuerito (fat) or bathed in dark sauce, is the bite for the initiated. It’s not an order taken lightly; it’s the choice of someone planning to stay the afternoon, someone arriving hungry for body and spirit. And if they come with a jaibuleros glass—filled with whiskey, rum, brandy, or vodka—it’s even better.
Key Questions and Answers
- What is cantina cuisine? Cantina cuisine is a shared gastronomic code between chefs and diners, characterized by traditional dishes that accompany drinks rather than being a mere afterthought.
- What are some iconic cantina dishes? Iconic dishes include a thick shrimp broth, tortas (sandwiches), elephant ears (breaded and fried), goat dishes, and chamorro.
- Why is cantina food so important? Cantina food isn’t just about satisfying hunger; it’s about staying to keep drinking, talking, laughing, crying, and returning. Each dish carries memories and a sense of community.
